The only real improvement of the Re-Arm board for me was the ability to use S-curve acceleration, which as you can see in this YouTube video, really makes things much more smooth. I eventually decided to go ahead and buy this $50 usd board when I read that there was a 32-bit version of Marlin called Marlin2.0. I was at first hesitant to use this board as it said it only supported Smoothieware, which I didn't want to switch to from Marlin, which I had become accustom to. It is a drop in replacement for an arduino mega, which meant that I could still use my ramps board.
#HYPERCUBE EVOLUTION UPGRADE#
I still however decided to upgrade to a 32-bit board, specifically the Re-Arm by Panucatt Devices. I never really ran into this issue as I always uploaded my prints to an SD card and plugged that into my printer. I had read a bit about the so called "8-bit speed limit" which is just how an 8 bit micro controller would start to stutter when doing very fast and complex moves while it is being sent g-code from a computer. This served me well for the first couple months while I got everything set up properly. I started out with using the generic 3d printing electronics, a ramps 1.4 board controlled by an 8-bit arduino mega using pololu A4988 stepper motor drivers. With ramps top left, 12v psu bottom right, ac heatīed switch top right, and RPi on bottom center)
My not so amazing cable management (Re-Arm Moral of the story, print your parts in petg or abs (not pla).
#HYPERCUBE EVOLUTION ZIP#
I came to this realization a little late however, and my printer was mostly held together by zip ties while printing out its replacement parts. I eventually came to me senses and replaced all my pla parts with petg parts, which are much more temperature resistant and also a lot less brittle. It would constantly crack in all kinds of places, especial where the brass inserts were. The main problem that I had was the brittleness of the plastic. I never had a problem with the low melting point of pla, as the hottest part that will be in contact with the plastic is the motor mounts, and stepper motors should generally not get too hot under normal use (even though they are rated to work even at 100 degrees C). At first I printed them in pla, which is a brittle plastic with a relatively low melting point. I used my other 3d printer, a flashforge pro, to print out those parts.
For those of you who dont know, the HEVO requires quite a few 3d printed parts, such as the motor holder or the hot end carriage.
0 kommentar(er)
